Blog 

The zipper is the most mechanically complex component on a wetsuit — and the most likely to fail. A great wetsuit with a cheap zipper leaks, jams, and frustrates users. This guide covers every zipper type used in wetsuit manufacturing, from basic YKK to fully sealed waterproof zippers, with recommendations for each thickness and use case.

Why the Zipper Matters So Much

Unlike seams (which can be sealed with glue and tape), a zipper is a mechanical opening by design. Every tooth is a potential water entry point. The zipper type determines:

• Water entry rate: How much water flushes through the zipper
• Ease of donning: Whether you can put the suit on solo or need help
• Durability: How many open/close cycles before failure
• Comfort: Whether the zipper rubs against your skin or neck
• Suit flexibility: Whether the zipper restricts back/shoulder movement

A 5mm suit with an unsealed back zipper can let in as much water as the entire seam system. When evaluating wetsuit quality, always check the zipper first.

Wetsuit Zipper Types Compared

Each Zipper Type Explained

1. Standard YKK Back Zipper

The most common and least expensive zipper. A full-length vertical zipper runs down the spine from the neck to the lower back, with a long cord (lanyard) attached to the slider so you can zip up solo.

How it works: Standard metal or plastic teeth with no sealing. A fabric flap covers the zipper on the inside, but it's not waterproof — water flows freely through the teeth.

Pros: - Easiest to don and doff (full-length opening, pull-cord for solo operation) - Cheapest option - Available from all zipper manufacturers - Replacement is simple and inexpensive

Cons: - Water flushes through freely — significant heat loss at the back - Metal zippers corrode in saltwater over time - Zipper creates a rigid strip down the spine, reducing back flexibility - The pull cord can catch on objects underwater

Best for: Budget suits, warm-water rental suits, situations where ease of use matters more than warmth.

2. YKK with Inner Dam (Flap)

An improvement on the standard back zipper: a neoprene flap (dam) is glued behind the zipper on the inside. This flap creates a barrier that redirects most flushing water back out through the zipper, rather than into the suit.

How it works: The inner dam is a 2–3mm neoprene strip that sits flush against your back when the suit is zipped. Water entering through the zipper teeth hits the dam and is channeled downward and out.

Pros: - Significantly less water entry than standard zipper - Same ease of donning as standard - Minimal cost increase - Standard on most mid-range suits

Cons: - Not fully waterproof — some water still seeps past the dam - Dam can delaminate over years of use - Still creates a rigid strip down the spine

Best for: 3–5mm suits for temperate water. This is the most common zipper configuration in mid-range wetsuits.

3. YKK Vislon (Plastic Teeth)

YKK Vislon zippers use molded plastic teeth instead of metal. The plastic is inherently more corrosion-resistant and slightly more flexible than metal.

Pros: - Corrosion-proof (no metal to rust in saltwater) - Lighter weight - Slightly more flexible than metal - Teeth don't deform over time

Cons: - Not waterproof (same water entry as standard) - Can be brittle in very cold water (below 5°C) - More expensive than metal

Best for: Surf wetsuits (where flexibility and corrosion resistance matter), warm-to-temperate water dive suits.

4. YKK Aquaseal (Waterproof Zipper)

The gold standard for wetsuit zippers. YKK Aquaseal (also called YKK PROmyn or Vislon WP) features rubber-coated teeth that interlock to form a nearly waterproof seal. Originally developed for drysuits, this zipper is increasingly used in premium wetsuits and semi-dry suits.

How it works: Each zipper tooth is coated in flexible rubber. When zipped, the rubber coatings compress together, creating a watertight seal. Combined with an inner dam, water entry is virtually eliminated.

Pros: - Near-zero water entry (best available for zippered suits) - Corrosion-proof (rubber-coated, no exposed metal) - Very durable (designed for drysuit use cycles) - Maintains seal over thousands of open/close cycles

Cons: - Most expensive zipper option (+$8–$15 per suit vs standard) - Stiffer than standard zipper (slightly reduces flexibility) - Requires periodic lubrication with manufacturer-approved wax - Longer lead time for custom colors (Aquaseal available in limited colors)

Best for: 5mm+ suits, semi-dry suits, cold-water diving, and any premium wetsuit where water entry is a concern.

Our factory standard: YKK Aquaseal is standard on all our 7mm and semi-dry suits, and available as an upgrade on 5mm suits.

5. Chest Entry Zipper

Instead of a full-length back zipper, a short horizontal zipper is placed across the upper chest. The suit is donned by pulling it on over the head/shoulders (like a pullover), then zipping the chest closure.

Pros: - Less water entry than back zipper (shorter zipper = less leakage) - Better back flexibility (no rigid strip down spine) - More comfortable for paddling (surfers) — no zipper pressing on board - Warmer overall (smaller opening, less flushing)

Cons: - Difficult to don (must squeeze through the neck/shoulder opening) - Not suitable for people with broad shoulders or limited mobility - Can't be used on very thick suits (7mm+ — too stiff to stretch over shoulders) - Shorter zipper still lets some water in

Best for: Premium surf suits (3–4mm), high-performance diving where back flexibility matters.

6. No Zipper (Pullover / Pull-On)

Freediving suits and competition triathlon suits often have no zipper at all. The suit is pulled on like a tight sweater, relying on the neoprene's stretch (especially open-cell interior) to accommodate entry.

Pros: - Zero water entry (no zipper = no leaks) - Maximum flexibility (no rigid zipper anywhere) - Lightest weight - Simplest design (fewer components to fail)

Cons: - Extremely difficult to don (especially open-cell interior — requires lubricant) - Time-consuming (5–10 minutes to put on) - Not practical for thick suits (5mm+ without zipper is very hard to enter) - Requires water-based lubricant or soapy water for open-cell suits

Best for: Freediving suits (open-cell interior), competition triathlon suits, spearfishing suits.

Zipper Placement: Back vs Chest vs Shoulder

Zipper Maintenance

For all zippers: - Rinse thoroughly with fresh water after every use (open and close under running water) - Periodically lubricate teeth with zipper wax or beeswax - Avoid forcing a jammed zipper — investigate the obstruction first - Store suit with zipper closed (reduces stress on teeth)

For YKK Aquaseal (waterproof): - Use only YKK-approved zipper lubricant (standard wax can degrade the rubber coating) - Inspect rubber coating annually for cracks or peeling - If rubber coating is damaged, the zipper must be replaced (cannot be repaired)

For metal zippers: - Dry thoroughly after rinsing (prevents corrosion) - Apply silicone spray occasionally to prevent rust - If corrosion appears, replace zipper immediately (corroded teeth will damage the slider)

OEM Zipper Options from Our Factory

Our recommendation by product tier:

Request Zipper Samples →

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace a broken zipper on my wetsuit? Yes, but it requires professional repair. The zipper must be unpicked from the neoprene, a new zipper glued and stitched in, and the seam re-sealed. Cost: $40–$80 depending on zipper type. Our factory offers zipper replacement service for OEM clients.

Why does my back zipper let in so much water? Standard back zippers have no water sealing — water flows freely through the teeth. If your suit has an inner dam but still leaks, the dam may be delaminating or damaged. For a significant improvement, upgrade to a suit with YKK Aquaseal.

Is a chest zipper better than a back zipper? For warmth and flexibility, yes. For ease of use, no. Chest zippers are harder to don but let in less water and don't restrict back movement. Surfers strongly prefer chest zippers; recreational divers often prefer back zippers for convenience.

How long does a YKK Aquaseal zipper last? With proper care (rinsing, lubrication, proper storage), 5–8 years and 2,000+ open/close cycles. The rubber coating is the wear point — once it cracks or peels, the zipper must be replaced.

Conclusion

The zipper is the most critical hardware decision in wetsuit design. For budget and warm-water suits, a standard YKK with inner dam is adequate. For premium and cold-water suits, YKK Aquaseal is essential — the difference in water entry is dramatic. For freediving, eliminate the zipper entirely.

When sourcing wetsuits, specify the exact zipper type, brand, and color in your spec sheet. Our factory offers all zipper types with full OEM customization. Contact us to discuss zipper options for your product line.

Related articles: - Wetsuit Stitching Technology Comparison - How to Choose Wetsuit Thickness: Temperature Guide - How to Choose a Wetsuit Factory: 7 Key Criteria